Let's begin at the beginning: You walk through a big, wooden Medieval-dungeon-style door (the only true dramatic touch to this restaurant's understated stone facade) and enter a zone of high concept minimalism. Tables are made of slabs of cement with unfinished wood surfaces. Chairs are the sort you'd find in a chemistry lab. The only noticeable color you'll find is a burnt sienna on the cushions-and the natural colors of the sushi on your plate. This design, of course, is intentional, since you're not really herefor the decor. It's simply the best setting in town for avoiding mat while still getting your protein. All of your standard sushi and maki options are

excellent; and even vegans can have the sushi experience with exotic rolls like kanpyo (marinated gourd and sesame seeds). And if there are (gasp) meat-eaters among you, they, too, will surely find happiness at sushi wabi.